UT 128 plus Arches and Canyonlands National Parks

I’m sitting on the rim of a canyon at Canyonlands National Park looking out over several hundred miles of arid ancient rock. In the distance, snow covered mountains loom over the horizon. Water is scarce here in a place created by erosion. Eons have passed with the occasional snow or rain shower making a small mark in the layer-cake of rock. When rain does fall or snow does melt it carries away bits of and pieces in an irregular way leaving the most amazing formations. The Colorado and Green rivers meet in this park and carry it away. If there was more water lush vegetation would cover and speed up the process, so a landscape like this can only exist where harsh conditions stunt the growth of plants. That doesn’t mean this desert looks anything like the grade-school textbook example of white sand dunes and tall cacti. No here there are relatives of familiar plants and trees often smaller than their brethren and certainly tougher.

Arches National Park is about 45 miles from here but since there’s no development between them the distance passes easily. Arches is a much smaller park and is focused on an unusual formation which leaves an arch in the sandstone. The unofficial state symbol of Utah is the Delicate Arch which is many times larger than a person. I only caught a glimpse of it yesterday at a distance because I didn’t want to take the several mile hike in my motorcycle gear.

The road I took from Cisco to Moab, UT 128 was spectacular. Coming from the rolling hills in Cisco, just south of I 70, I headed south towards the mountains mentioned above. The road takes a dip into a canyon that happens to be carved by the Colorado Riverand follows on the north shore until the historic Dewey bridge, one of the only links for southern Utah to Colorado and a large suspension bridge in itself. Crossing the new bridge next to the suspension bridge built for horses, the road goes deeper into the canyon just above the water level. It may be further south, but imagine driving in a small part of the Grand Canyon with red sandstone walls towering above you on both sides and an occasional view of those mountains in the distance.

Oh snow! The Million Dollar Highway

Two days ago it was a great sight to see the big Colorado mountains grow from bumps in the distance to towering snow-capped gems. The drive yesterday took me north from Durango to Grand Junction on the Million Dollar Highway (US 550) right between of the peaks I spotted the day before. There were two high passes, Molas and Red Mountain, each above 9,000 feet. As I left Fort Lewis College after a free lunch (thanks to the admissions office tour guide I met at my motel), I saw some clouds in the distance, but they just looked big and fluffy, not manacing. Going up towards the first pass I was hit with what looked liked a series of refrozen snow flakes, the second snow of the trip, the first while on the road. The road conditions were good so I pressed on. As I gained elevation the sides of the road were buried deeper and deeper in snow, until at the top there was no evidence of spring as the snow was piled several feet.

When I got to the scenic pull off for Molas pass I took the photo opportunity. There were more clouds in the distance that looked lower than the tops of the surrounding peaks; I decided to go on as long as things were safe. I drove down to historic Silverton under continually cloudier skies. On the ride up towards Red Mountain it actually began to snow. Fortunately the ground was warm enough to melt the snow before it could accumulate. Looking at the map, I saw lots of twists and turns ahead, which in better conditions could be amazing. As I got higher the constant freeze and thaw cycle had taken its toll on the road leaving lots of cracks and pock marks. Plus there was also gravel and sand used to clear the snow, so going fast wasn’t an option. As I got to the top of Red Mountain, I could see blue skies in the distance at the exit of the valley.

Pressing on I continued down from the pass on a very twisty section of road going less than the speed limit (can you believe it?). I stopped to take a picture of a snow shelf where avalanches can skip the road and slide into the valley below. After a while the turns opened up and the road straightened out. As I got lower the snow turned to a light rain, which I took to be a good sign. Once I got to the valley below and out of the clouds, it was a regular sunny spring day with cloud covered mountains in the distance.

My luck continues

After finding the hostel in Durango closed, I drove back down Main Avenue looking for a place to crash. I pulled into the Travelodge because they offered free Rec Center passes. The check-in person happened to be a tour guide at Fort Lewis College, my main destination here. So I got a highlights tour without setting foot on the campus. She mentioned that the Admissions office has free lunch passes and that I could get one if I mentioned her name. So I got to relive the dining hall experience, all because I asked a bunch of questions.

Rec Centers play an important role in the fit lifestyle that seems to pervade this state. I’ve seen them all over and never empty. This community health club was as nice as any big gym I’ve been to. They even had two ergs, so I was able to row. The 6500 foot altitude made itself known when I started to workout, so I didn’t set a personal record, but it was great to row.

The unsymmetrical suggests movement – J Campbell

No data connection available

For some reason I can’t get a data connection to upload gps points. I have a feeling this could last a couple of days. I’m planning to visit some of the National Parks that are far away from Interstates and big towns. So don’t worry if you don’t get an updated map for a couple of days. As you can imagine, I’m still recording the gps info and will add it when I return to the 21st century.

Santa Fe

I spent the day wandering around the historic center of Santa Fe. The weather has cleared up and couldn’t be much nicer. It’s about 65F with the wonderful dryness that can only be found in arid climates. There are a few cottony fluffy clouds and a chance of a thunderstorm, but even if it rains, terrain that only gets 4 inches of rain a year usually absorbs rain like a sponge.

Il Vicino surprised me by having a pizza oven outside of Colorado. After a fabulous New Mexican meal at the historic Maria’s Mexican Kitchen, I didn’t feel bad going after an old fav. The daily special hasn’t let me down yet, and the trademark chili oil was as tasty as ever.

The Georgia O’Keeffe museum was one of the best single artist museums I’ve ever been to. I’m not sure if it’s my love for the west or her powerful use of form and color, but either way the experience was moving.

Ira who worked in the super-computer department at Los Alamos for 35 years and has clocked more than half a million miles on a bike and I have had some great conversations. He has seen the history of super computing unfold first hand with the computers his lab used, often the world’s fastest. I’ve also learned a lot about riding really long distances from an experienced rider. As an officer for the Iron Butt club I’ve learned about the qualifying rides, which include the shortest, 1,000 miles in 24 hours (about a 43 mph average). One important point he made that I found enlightening was this, “there’s a small difference between wishing and doing, it’s called motivation.”

Another 1,000 miles down

I’ve now covered five thousand miles since January and I know for sure that this trip was the right move. Yesterday I rode 300 miles, 250 from Amarillo to Santa Fe and another 50 on a local’s tour of Santa Fe with my new friend Ira.

Something happened as I passed from the plains of Texas to the desert of New Mexico, as I crossed from central to mountain time, as the first snow-covered mountains appeared on the horizon. I’m not sure how to explain it but it felt like a homecoming to be back in the West.

Sky Road

This road is one of the best I’ve ever ridden. On the border between Oklahoma and Arkansas, the OK 1 / AR 88 was really a treat. This picture shows the steep elevation changes and path along the ridgeline. I think the whole thing was about 45 miles, but it sure seemed farther. Like the much longer Blue Ridge, no trucks are allowed, so only cars and bikers take this out of the way route. Thanks to the off-season I pretty much had the whole thing to myself. The road itself is amazing and the views are outstanding. I stopped at almost every pull off to look at the valleys below on both sides.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5pears/458103910/map

Barber Motorsports Museum

Folding scooter

I took about 300 photos but there wasn’t time to upload them all. So I put this one up to show one, a cool scooter, and two, a glimpse of the amazing collection of motorcycles. This picture shows one part of the five packed floors of bikes. If you have any interest in motorcycles or vehicle design, then this museum is a must see.

Oklahoma

Ok, today's the beginning of my second day in Oklahoma. Yesterday it
was overcast, rainy, all-in-all horrible riding conditions so it was a
perfect day to hang out and see Norman.

I went to Turquoise for brunch with Lindsey, Bratton, and Loft. It was
probably one of the best brunches I've had. Huevos rancheros and
smoked salmon chowder and a taste of Lindsey's oatmeal brulee with
creme anglais. It was obvious they had a professional chef.

Lindsey gave a great tour of her home- and colllege- town, Norman,
Oklahoma University has real architectural character with extensive
use of red bricks and stone. The school's museum had a
better-than-would-be-expected collection with works by (please pardon
my spelling) Renoir, O'Keffe, Calder, Rauschenberg, as well as many
ancient and oriental works. Even though the collection was relatively
small, it certainly provided a glimpse of art history for the past
thousand years. I particularly enjoyed seeing the Russian icons, after
having seen how they would have been displayed in Russia last summer.

A quick stop at the Library for happy hour got the weekend off to a
good start. The Library, you ask? The Library is the name of the bar
across the street from campus. It really is the perfect name for an
excuse, "but mom I don't see why my grades aren't good, I sure spent a
lot of time at the Library."

The weekly Friday dinner with Lindsey's dad, sister, brother-in-law,
and nephew was a riot. Patrick, the brother-in-law, is a rare example
of a person who knows what he believes, sticks to his guns, is
skillful in expressing his opinions, and freely shares his feelings,
biases, and opinions. He certainly has studied the positions he takes,
which are not always in the main stream. He is a proud southerner (of
old) with roots in Kentucky and Texas. He was quick to point out that
northern Florida is indeed part of the south (see Staci, I'm not the
only one). With more politics in his future, I think these skills will
serve him well, as long as he doesn't step on more than 49% of the
voting toes in a two candidate race. (Patrick, I hope you find this a
correct interpretation.)

Today I'm bundling up and heading for Santa Fe, 550 miles west. If it
stays cold and overcast, I may end up in a roadside motel. Otherwise
I'm going to try to go all the way.