Hyder, Alaska

Not much more than an outpost, Hyder, Alaska is the southern-most and closest-to-the-US city that you can drive to. It’s also at the beginning of the Alaska Highway. A popular ride north goes another 1,700 miles to Prudoe Bay, above the Artic Circle. I passed by and talked to a number of bikers who are making the migration up to the Artic.

My friend Jen and I have a running conversation about the string of coincidences that make up my life. I’m always amazed when something serendipitous happens. We definitely joke about the frequency. In Hyder while I was filling up with gas I mentioned to the guy in the shop that I drove from Florida. He said he had a friend who spent the summers there who was from Jacksonville. He called and didn’t get an answer, but asked that I stop by on my way back from the bar/restaurant.

So I went to the Sealaska Inn and wrote some postcards, had a couple hot dogs, and got my picture next to an Alaska sign. I really thought to myself, "Ok, you made it to Alaska, now what?"

After I dropped my postcards at the tiny post office, I stopped back by the gas station. Again there was no answer, but since it was late, Bill had me follow him to his friend’s after calling the neighbor to see if his car was there. We went over and sure enough, Larry from Jacksonville was home. He reminded me of my 8th grade history teacher, Frank "The Tank" Callahan. I thought I was about as far as away I could get in our country and here was a guy from across town. It turns out we didn’t know each other, but we at least share a common city.

Another 1,000 miles down

This has been the quickest thousand miles so far (now 10,000 miles since April). In the last three days I've ridden 1400 miles through scenic British Columbia from Alaska to Alberta almost exclusively following the Trans-Canada rail lines. Early sunrises and late sunsets have made these long days easy.

British Columbia is a covers a vast area. When I heard in Vancouver that forestry was its main industry, ahead of tourism, I was a little surprised. Tourism in Florida, my reference point, is way bigger than trees. After more than a thousand miles of forest, I can see that it's going to be a very long time before tourism catches up.

On the way to Alaska I drove through the Lakes District which was covered with, you guessed it, lakes, rivers, and streams. Unlike the arid Colorado Plateau and California, BC gets its share of rain and snow. I heard on the radio a couple days ago here that there was a chance of flooding, so I was on the lookout. The above average heat seems to have accelerated the melting of the snowpack swelling streams and rivers. While no river I passed had completely breeched its banks, most were close. Several still sections had glacial blue or perfectly clear parts, but the majority I noticed were brown. The high sediment load gave most of the water a chocolate milk color.

I passed many stands of trees that obviously weren't born underwater yet were in enough to look like they magically floated upright. I imagine the trees along the banks and islands in the middle normally enjoy some space from the water. Many islands and sandbars were submerged and the water on the banks was up to the grass. The normal buffer zone was definitely in use. A number of fallen trees bobbed up and down whole with roots creating a prow.

The railroad seems to have cut a relatively straight path across following valleys cut by streams and rivers. The road, the 16, the Yellowhead Highway, that follows this route is in places built on elevated earth, showing that high water has happened before. I drove two 100 mile sections of road with nothing, no lights, no gas, no billboards, and almost no traffic. Anyone who's worried about running out of space should pick something else to worry about, like watersheds and pollution. I was glad to have a full tank when I passed a sign that said "No services for 202km" (120 miles).

For the most part where I drove was hilly at the most, but as I approached the coast the mountains grew first like on the horizon and then along the road. The road bent north after Smithers to find an opening. The real drama came when I got on the beginning of the Alaska Highway, the road to Hyder. It was 40 miles from the turn off passing between mountains that had the steepness of the Alps or Rockies down to the Portland Canal, the start of the Canada-US border.

Glacial Lake

Glacial Lake

I rode through Jasper and Banff National Parks today. Here’s a picture with a glacier and partially frozen lake. I also stopped at Lake Louise after hearing about it so much from my grandparents.

Roadside Animal Sightings

Yesterday I saw 1 deer, 2 caribou, and 3 bears (not together, otherwise all might not have left the party).

The day before was even more spectacular, I (happily) passed 15 bears. It was interesting to see their different personalities. Some dashed away as soon as I approached. Others seemed unfazed, not noticing the cars and motorcycles wizzing by. Which leaves the two who looked up, made eye contact, then licked their lips. Being low on gas, I was a little worried about these guys.

Otherwise I've seen a enough animals to fill an educational placemat including but not limited to a bald eagle, turkeys, buffalo, foxes, elk, a mole (while walking), and several large rodents / small mamals I didn't recognize.